Now that I've got my new computer set up I decided to give the website a much needed update. But to do that, I either had to load up the old Dreamweaver 3 (the old one was already too powerful for my needs), or find a decent alternative.
After google-ing my way around, I tried out many solutions, including Aptana (great-looking, but also too much), Amaya (too standards-compliant for my web-taste), and a few other unmentionables, I've since settled in nicely with Crimson (Emerald?) Editor.
Its got easy raw code editing WITH the simple ftp support I so desperately craved. I've yet to see how well it manages sites (template updates, etc), but I'll deal with that when (if) I ever get bored of my red on brown on brown color scheme...which likely wont ever happen!
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